SonicWRX
Member
Registered: Feb 2004
Location: West Chester, Ohio, USA
Posts: 40 |
DIY Parkland Screen: My design with instructions
I am a longtime reader of the AVS forum and just got into projectors. Using all the great info here, I went with a Sanyo PLV-Z2, but was having trouble deciding on a screen until I read about the Parkland stuff. I built one a couple of weeks ago and my design is based on an easily replaceable screen mounted in a fixed frame. In order to build this, you will need enough room to the side of your mounted frame to slide the screen in.
Construction steps:
1) Attach a piece of 4x8 Parkland to a sheet of 4x8 3/16" pegboard using latex-based adhesive. Spread the adhesive on the Parkland's smooth side with a notched trowel using the recommended notch size (1/16 x 1/16 x 3/32). Let it go tacky then put the pegboard on the adhesive (a helper is nice here). Flip the assembly over and smooth the Parkland with a roller. Clean up any stray adhesive with warm water. Set the screen aside to dry. After it's dry, cut the length to 85.3 inches for a perfect 16:9. Set aside.
2) The frame is built from 1x4 poplar lumber biscuit jointed together. <Click >
3) Take 2" wide strips of 9/32" Luann and attach to 3 sides. Go ahead and cut a fourth side as you will need it later. <Click >
4) Trim three sides with 2-1/4" moulding (usually measures 2-3/16") of your choice. Cut the fourth side for attachment later. I used the cheap, pine rounded stuff. <Click >
5) Prime and paint the frame and the two extra pieces. I used black enamel as my final coat.
6) Attach a couple of 20" cleats (for 16" stud centers), to the wall at the height you want your screen. Make sure they are level and that you can hit two studs for each cleat. Hang the frame on the cleats and them screw through the frame into the same studs in four places. <Click >
7) The frame's cross section allows you to slide the screen into the open side. It also allows the screen to expand and contract based on humidity and temperature. <Click >
8) Screw on the remaining piece of Luann and the last piece of moulding. I used countersunk, black wood screws for that final step and they pretty much disappear.
Here is a picture of the finished product. <Click>
That's it!
Mitch
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